(The last) trip to the 20's

        "There are moments in your life when you know that something is going to change and there is nothing you can do about it. This is one of those moments. I know I have to go, I have to move on. But I’m scared. I’m afraid I can’t do it by myself…”

                 Earlier today

                The time goes by and there is no excitement, absolutely nothing new. The red shoes and I are bored, even though our house is filled with Vogue numbers and our closet has a reasonable amount of beautiful cocktail dresses. It’s been a long time since we went on a trip and there is a decade that has always fascinated the shoes. Since we watched “The Great Gatsby” by Baz Luhrmann, they turned this fascination into an obsession. And as usual I have to follow their lead. Who knows what happens if I don’t? I mean I just can’t take them off, they are very powerful…

                It all happened in a very strange way. We went to a park near my apartment and I decided to rent a little boat. There I was perfectly calm and suddenly the boat began to spin like crazy and a jazz song was playing (I believe it was this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJC21zzkwoE&list=PL7337CD7C2638A0A). I tried to scream but no one seemed to listen. Everything that was surrounding me was getting distorted. I decided to let myself go and enjoy the trip. At some point I got used  to the craziness... The surroundings began to change and suddenly I realized that I was no longer in the park. I was in a pool in what seemed to be the best party ever! I mean I went to great parties before but nothing can be compared to this energy and madness. I was in the Roaring Twenties!

                “I’m starting to feel like an alien. The women around me are wearing the “flapper look” – the flapper dress was very common in this decade and it is great because it flattened the bust line rather than accentuating it (thank good I’m wearing a LBD, at least I can be almost unnoticed). The velvet and satin dresses are embellished with fringes, beads or rhinestones.  They all have “bobbed” their hair and some of them are wearing cloche hats (popularized by Couture houses like Lanvin). I can smell Channel Number 5 in the hair…  It is exciting to observe how Surrealism and Art Deco influenced fashion in this decade and how the work of artists like Elsa Schiaparelli is worn by flesh in blood people standing next to me. Most women are either dancing the Charleston, drinking, laughing or smoking or everything at once. And when I was distracted observing the environment, I was removed from the pool by a group of four very fun young women that gave me a cloche hat. I’m in the middle of the “dance floor" and I couldn’t get out so I tried to copy the moves of the couples next to me. A very nice boy started to dance with me”.

I would like to tell that it was a romantic and beautiful scene but that’s not exactly what happened. The truth is I fell. I fell pretty hard and hut my feet. I had to get out of there. The boy carried me to a safer place and I took of my shoes. I know what you are thinking “What a gentleman! This one is a keeper!”. Well, but he was only sweet for a little while. A very tall blond woman passed by and he followed her like a dog without saying goodbye.

                There I was: heart-broken (well not that much, I mean I have only knew him for 15 minutes) and without being able to walk. But I had to keep my mind positive. I was in the 20’s listening to jazz in an incredible party. I started to watch people carefully again, trying to take it all in. In that moment I noticed an interesting group of women. They weren’t wearing flapper dresses; they are wearing LBD just like me! The fact is Coco Chanel invented and popularized them around 1926 so it is possible. Little Black Dresses were part of the boyish look of this era – the “garçonne” – that was directly related with the Women’s Rights Movement of the beginning of the century. For the first time, dresses were more fitted and women's legs were seen with hemlines rising to the knee.

                “Oh my god! Where are the shoes? They were here just a second ago. I can’t find them! Oh, there they are, over there dancing in the middle of the crowd. Suddenly, they turn in my direction and stay still for a while. Are they trying to tell me something? I can’t walk in their direction. I mean, I don’t think I can walk at all! Is that a woman trying to put on my shoes?! “Hey! Stop, those are my shoes!” She doesn’t listen. Why did they let her? I know they have a mind of their own; they wouldn’t let her wear them if they didn’t want to… I can’t believe they left me without even saying goodbye. I mean I guess that long stop was their way of saying goodbye. But it’s hard. I mean we have been together for almost a year now, since last September. And they are leaving me?! Apparently, they are… How am I supposed to go home without them? I know they have always wanted to live in the 20’s, I can feel it, but this is not where I belong… But I guess they know that, that’s why they have chosen a new owner or more precisely someone new to own…”.

                Here I am in my apartment. How did I come back? Well, as trivial as it may seem I closed my eyes for a second and there I was in the boat again, in the park nearer home. It was so quite. Nothing had changed except for one thing: I was barefoot. I went home cursing the shoes for leaving me thinking that I can’t even have a successful relationship with a pair of shoes! And then it hit me: maybe I was better without them. Yes, I loved the imagination and the power but I guess I don’t need that extra confidence anymore. Their work with me is done. It is time for them to move on. It is time for me to move on. I have to keep on writing. I have to keep on learning more and more about fashion. And I have to do it by myself. It isn’t easy but I’m absolutely sure it will be worth it.

                Goodbye Red!

                Just me

THE SHOES ARE GOING POP

  The Red Shoes and I have been obsessed with Pop Art since we started to learn more about it. Today we present you a painting of one of the most incredible artists of all time and the major figure of Pop Art - Andy Warhol. He profoundly influenced our notion of art and along with it our notion of fashion. Therefore,  the shoes and I decided to make a comment about it.

The painting is "Red Jackie" from 1964 by Andy Warhol.

It portrays the face of a woman, Jackie Onassis, in a red background. She is smiling  confidently and gracefully Her lips were painted red to match the backdrop. The eyes were painted blue and the hair is black. The brushstrokes of blue outline her black hair and the colors of her face contrast with the red canvas.Warhol used bold, flat colors and created oppositions to stress Jackie's face features.

The notion of appropriation that defined many pop art work's that would become part of the iconography of the 20th century is present in this picture. Warhol used a photograph of the first lady that was taken before the death of a president in a serene moment of her life. He produced art using commonplace objects, celebrities, global icons, showing that they can also be acessible. Even icons are flesh in blood people. He has also proven that everything can be transformed into art, everything can "become pop", and art must be accessible and affordable to everibody. Anything can be a piece of art as long as it has it is original. Originality is the key-word when it comes to the Pop Art movement.

       Red Shoes

REBEL WITHOUT A CAUSE (ending rewrited by the Red Shoes)

The red shoes and I were watching “Rebel Without a Cause” on the other night. We have wanted to see it for a long time and now that we did they seem quite disappointed. They were squeezing my feet when the movie ended. I tried to ignore it. The day after they I felt that they were bored and a bit sad. And today I felt an urge to write that came (you won’t believe it!) from my feet! Turns out they liked the movie but they didn’t like the end, so I have to rewrite it. Yes, me! I have to be presumptuous enough to think that I can do a better version of an epic movie. Well, but I guess I have to keep the shoes happy… It is my time to thank them. And if they want a happier ending for the movie, they will get it.

(Jim and Plato are at the planetarium)

Jim: Do you see that star over there, Plato? I can’t talk to you if I can’t see you.

(Pluto shoes up behind Jim)

Plato: I’m right here. I’m afraid my time has come…

Jim: Hey, don’t talk like that. I care about you, all right? We care about you. Judy is outside waiting for us. We can overcome this together.

Plato (crying and visibly frightened): I will do it, you know. I don’t want to hurt you… But you left me just like my dad and then my mom…

Jim:  It’s ok. We will never leave you. Would you borrow me your gun, please? Just for a second…

Plato (screaming) : No, the gun is the only thing that is keeping you here.. If I let it go, I will never see you again. You are only here because you are afraid I’m going to hurt you or Judy…

Jim: I’m afraid you will hurt yourself. I need you to trust me. Don’t you trust me, Plato?

Plato: I have nobody in this world…

Jim: You have us. You can live with us.

Plato: Really?

Jim: Of course. Now, would you pass me the gun?

Plato (goes mad and screams really loud): Never… You and I can never be together in this world… (points the gun at Jim) Maybe there is another way… Do you believe in heaven? In a place  where we would never feel lonely or misunderstood? Do you? (gets really excited almost maniac and he is still pointing the gun at Jim) Wouldn’t it be great?

(Judy appears behind Plato and grabs his arm, the one who is holding the gun. A shot echoes in the planetarium).

Outside

(the police hears the shot and starts running, entering the building)

Planetarium

(Jim is bleeding. The shot hit his leg. Judy is fighting with Plato, trying to take the gun from him. Suddenly, Plato realizes that Jim is hurt. He drops the gun and starts to cry. Judy grabs the gun and runs into Jim)

Plato: What have I done? I hurt my only friend… (Plato cries more)

(The police enter the planetarium)

Ray: Police. Drop your guns!

(Judy drops the gun. Plato is still crying, lay down on the floor. He doesn’t seem to have listened Ray. When the police realize he is not armed, he is immediately arrested and doesn’t offer resistance. Plato seems absolutely defeated)

Ray: Oh boy, you are in real trouble this time…

 Judy (to Ray): Jim is hurt. Can someone please call an ambulance? (to Jim) It’s going to be ok. I’m going to take care of you.

Jim (smiling): Forever?

Judy: Well, if you take care of me too…

Jim: Always. You know I love you, right?

(They kiss passionately)

                                                               10 years later

(Judy and Jim are at a park playing with two kids. One of them is wearing a red jacket. They seem really happy. Jim is laming.)

Judy: Jim look over there, it’s Plato!

Jim: I can’t believe it. After all these years… I have to go talk to him.

Judy: Are you sure that’s a good idea?

Jim: Sure… It has been a long time ago…  (calling Plato) Hey, you! Plato! Remember me?

Plato:  Jim?! Judy?!  I have never expected to see you again. 

Judy: How are you doing?

Plato: I'm ok.  The reformatory  was terrible but gave me time to rethink my actions. I grew up and figured that I have hurt people who cared about me. You see that beautiful girl over there? She is my wife and the boy next to her is my son. They are my life now and I have never been this happy. Jim, I’m so sorry for what I have done to you. I have to thank you for all that you have done for me. You believed in me when you didn’t have reasons to do so. I was sick…

Jim: Well, I’m glad you are happy but I don’t know if I can ever forgive you… My leg was never the same. I thought I could talk to you like nothing happened but I can’t. Goodbye Plato.

Judy: God bless you. Bye.

(Jim and Judy walk away holding hands. Plato watches them as they leave until he can no longer see them. He turns to his wife and son and holds them)

The End

(Well, the movie probably wouldn’t have become so iconic if it had this ending but I can finally feel my feet again. The red shoes are very sensitive. I think they may have a crush on my new red bag…  Otherwise why would they make me write this? Well, red is indeed the color of passion… Well, I do hope the “happy” ending doesn't ruin the movie completly. See you on the next trip!)

Red Shoes

 

GLOBAL ICON

Here is a clue on someone that I think will be a global icon in the future:

"I want to do something they will remember"

Red Shoes

DANCING IN(TO) THE 50’s

We were dancing in a dim room. Piano. Frank Sinatra is playing in the vinyl record player. We go round and round. Saxophone. We are smiling. Voice. I fix my hair band and my flared red skirt. Piano again. The set changes. "I’ve got you under my skin". And in a glance of a song we danced all the way into the 50’s.

Dancing has a way of making us travel (or is it the red shoes? I’m actually wearing them…). But we must keep on moving; otherwise we will miss all the beauty. We must take in the greatness of the show that is surrounding us. We went all the way from a 50’s theme party to a party that is actually taking place in the 50’s. We can see the people around us but they don’t seem to notice us. It’s like we are in a transparent invisible box that moves as long as we keep on dancing (can these trips get more amazing?). Now that I understood the mechanism, I should tell you what I’m seeing. Women are wearing sack dresses or LBDs and they all possess satin gloves and pearls. Ballerina and femininity are the key-words. Men seem to embrace the “Bold Look” introduced by Esquire Magazine in 1948: wide shoulders, broad lapels, and an emphasis on bold, coordinated accessories, or the "New Edwardian Look” (flared jackets, natural shoulders, and an overall narrower cut, worn with a curly-brimmed bowler hat and a long slender overcoat with velvet collar and cuffs). The party is all about glamour and we don’t get the chance to experience much of it. We are already spinning towards a different situation.

We went back in time. It’s 1947 and we can finally sit to witness a definable moment in the history of fashion: the launch of the “New Look” by Christian Dior. In the post-war period, the fashion houses reopened and a tailored, feminine look was prized. Dior defined a signature shape characterized by a below-mid-calf length, full-skirt, pointed bust, small waist, rounded shoulder line and curved jacket peplum. Jackets with peplums were usually worn with a long, narrow pencil skirt. This radical new silhouette would become extremely popular in the 50’s, influencing designers throughout many years, including Cristóbal Balenciaga. Something is pushing us from our chairs and in a blink of an eye we are dancing again. This time we are in a beautiful park.

I believe we are in the 50’s again. Floral halter-top dresses and shirtdresses are plentiful. Some have jewels, low-cut necklines or Peter Pan collars. These dresses are gorgeous but what I found more interesting is that some women are actually wearing trousers. Women who had worn trousers during the war refused to abandon them. In the 1950s, pants became very narrow, and were worn ankle-length. Cigarette pants were popularized by Audrey Hepburn. Men are wearing knit shirts, sweaters and Bermudas and the older ones are wearing corduroy jackets with leather buttons. The breeze is changing and I can know hear the sound of the waves calling.

We are dancing on the beach. And what a wonderful beach! It is filled with families and groups of teenagers. Women are wearing two-piece swimsuits. By this time bikinis started to be popular in Europe but not in America, only for sport training. Brigitte Bardot popularized the bikini that would become a major hit in the 60’s. Some women are wearing shorts that were very short in this decade, and loosed printed or knit tops. And suddenly, after we took a deep breath near the sea, the set changes completely and serenity and calm are no longer welcome.

I believe we are in a “beatnik party”. Kids are dancing to the sound of jazz and rock n’ roll and we have to join the dance so that we don’t have to leave.  "Beat" girls have their hair long and straight, but some teenagers adopted the ponytail, short or long. Most of all they want to be different from their mothers who wore curly poodle cuts and the beehive. Some young men are wearing tight trousers or jeans, white tee shirts and leather jackets in a James Dean style. Teenagers and young adults have become a strong force in fashion. “Is that Jack Kerouac?!” Grrrr…  I shouldn’t have stop dancing; now I can’t know if that was him for sure. We are moving again…

                               

New York had become an American design center during the war and cinema, music and television would allow the “American way of life” to prevail. We are now on the setting of “I Love Lucy”, one of the most popular shows of the 50’s that brought attention to maternity wear. Even Givenchy created a maternity wear clothing line. Due to the baby boom, there was a high demand for clothing for children. Many boys started to wear jeans to Elementary school and girls wore dresses that resembled their mother’s. It is a quick visit. We are getting to the end of our tip but we still have time to watch Marilyn Monroe singing “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend”, to watch a little bit of an Elvis Presley concert (and to notice how much he has influenced fashion with his pompadour hairstyle) and to a perfect ending, to dance in Rome while watching Audrey Hepburn (I absolutely love that scarf, blouse and skirt) and Gregory Peck riding a motorcycle in “Roman Holidays”.

This time there is no need to wake up.  I’m actually flying to Rome tomorrow so we can stay here. I'm finding it hard to leave the 50's but sonner or later it will happen. But I can always dream and dance. Thank you for joining me. 

Red Shoes

SAY YES (OR NO) TO GLOBAL FASHION

                In the other night, the red shoes and I were looking at street style photos of different cities of the world. Despite the differences between a New Yorker and an Indian girl, the discrepancies are not so remarkable any more. We all know we live in a globalized world but have you ever wondered if that’s an advantage concerning fashion? Is style getting richer or poorer?

                Some say that street style didn’t suffer with globalization, in fact, «it was born that way» (Will Welch, senior editor at GQ), meaning that street style actually exists online. It first started by photographing unique casual styles, especially during fashion weeks but lately it has became «self-aware rather than accidental culture». Despite some exceptions, some people are actually getting dressed for the cameras. The impact of street style on fashion industry is enormous. It is more relevant to people in general than runway shoes. And that impact may have caused the loss of diversity since we can have free style tips from someone living in China but it may also have enriched the way we dress. Ultimately, a person in China may dress like me but I can also dress like her. So, the outcome may be a “salad bowl” of fashion.

                If we actually consider the three positions regarding Globalization, I would say that we are experiencing the “salad bowl”. There are numerous cultures that influence each other without melting. They mix like the ingredients of a salad, a global salad. We have learned to live with diversity and in my opinion it looks like a great benefit to style. We have almost lived in a cultural mosaic before the discoveries of the 15^th and 16^th century, when cultures from different continents barely influenced each other. When we discover the seas, we discover different styles, clothes and accessories. We have even experiencing a little of the “melting pot” in Europe. In the 18^th century and the 19^th century, the nobles in Europe tried to dress like the French court. They would really make an effort to dress like Louis XV and (unfortunately) to buy a wig that was exactly like his. In the 20^th century, especially after World War II, the focus shifted to the “America way of life” with movies, TV shows and music advertising a certain way of dressing, but European designers like Coco Chanel, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent were the ones who revolutionized the way women dress and created global icons of the wardrobe that almost every woman wishes worldwide. Nowadays, we are not so obsessed with Paris, New York, Milan and London. They are still the most influential cities to the fashion industry but cities like Bombay, Berlin, São Paulo, Cape Town, Cairo and Antwerp are getting more influentional day by day with the rise of new designers and especially in street style.

                But fashion is not all about style. It is an industry of billions and that is only possible due to globalization. Economically speaking, globalization allowed the growth of many brands and especially the development of the fast fashion phenomenon seems to have no limits. Designers have to keep in mind that they are not creating for the typical “western” man/ woman. They have to have a wider target in mind. Although a girl in Cape Town may wear the same shirt I’m wearing she won’t use it the same way. Like Valerie Steel, the director and chief curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, said, «Despite the homogenization created by fast fashion, young people around the world remain concerned with individual self-expression» and also the same piece of clothing adapts to our social, political, cultural and religious context.  

                                                             (Chanel Pre-Fall 2012)

                To conclude, globalization has its down and positive aspects in fashion. I would personally love to arrive to Japan and to see typical and historical pieces worn by its people but I will probably found a style that is a global dialogue between tradition and influences of British and New York street style. As we have access to information, we cannot expect others not to have it. The fashion industry has changed along with communication, arts, politics and almost every single aspect of our daily lives. We cannot stop things from growing. Development is essential. To me, as long as fashion keeps its courage, its ability to transform and reinvent and its magic and fantasy, I’m happy. As long as we keep on balancing the desire to fit in and the desire to stand out, individuality won’t end. I don’t believe in a completely standardized world because that will mean the death of creativity and fortunately there are millions of creative people in the world. I do believe in a (balanced) globalization. If were not part of a globalized society, I wouldn’t be wearing these shoes and I wouldn’t certainly be writing this blog. 

(Street style photos from different cities of the world)

              If you want to check out really great street style photos go to oalfaiatelisboeta.blogspot.pt . You can also check  http://ilikemystyle.net/ to see photos posted by people from several countries.

                                               

                                                        (by O Alfaiate Lisboeta)

              Red Shoes